And now here’s part 3 of my Georgian adventure, where I experienced some impressive highs and some lacklustre lows… After having spent a day in Kutaisi and a day exploring Tbilisi it was time to head out of the city and see what the area around Tbilisi had to offer: the Uplistsikhe – Gori – Mtskheta – Jvari day trip.
Luckily, a Georgian friend of friend happened to be in Tbilisi and was happy to play chauffeur as he hadn’t been to most of the places since he was a kid. First stop was Uplistsikhe Cave Town.
Carved in the rocks atop a hill overlooking the area this ancient site is one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia – dating back to the Iron Age! It was such a unique and surreal setting and I had to keep reminding myself that this was not the Flintstones filmset, it was where people actually cried, laughed and danced for centuries.
Look at this view! How would you ever want to leave?
Gori seemed to be a place where everyone stopped. It’s home to the Stalin Museum which (depending on your ethical views) you can visit. It turned out it was more a place housing a random collection of stuff Stalin owned without providing real background info, with everything written in Georgian or Cyrillic. You can always book a tour, but in the end it wasn’t worth the money.
I was really curious to lay my eyes upon Mtskheta as it was supposed to be a real slice of ancient history. But everything seemed to be restored and rebuilt. It was cute and quaint with a market through the high street and a famous cathedral, but it lacked a bit of the history I was expecting. To give you an idea of how big the tourism is in Georgia: we ran into the couple that we shared a taxi with to visit the monasteries two days earlier. And their trip wasn’t going much better: they were stuck in the middle of nowhere when their taxi broke and once they arrived to their destination in the middle of the night their room was given away. So we definitely had lots to catch up on.
If you’re feeling peckish on your travels, I’d recommend stocking up on churchkhela. You’ll see these everywhere, and no, they are not sausages like I initially thought. They are a snack with walnuts and grape juice, also known as Georgian Snickers, and they are actually the most delicious natural sweet I’ve shoved in my mouth.
As we travelled around chowing on our churckhela, we kept spotting the Jvari monastery on the hill calling us to come visit, but more on that later.
Before we trekked up the hill to meet Jvari, we sat down for a quick lunch and our first experience of Georgian lemonade – my advice is skip the vanilla-flavoured version and stick to the original lemon variety, or if you’re feeling daring go for the tarragon infusion!
One of my favourite Bosnian dishes is brown bean soup and I am very picky about it, so you can imagine I was sceptical about trying the Georgian version! Don’t tell my mum … but I LOVED it. The Georgian spices work well and their cornbread was delightfully crunchy. If you see lobio soup on the menu you must try it!
And then it was time for Jvari. And honestly? Jvari is a shameless tease that gets you all excited while driving around it. But once you get on top, it’s not as big or impressive as you might have guessed – Uplistsikhe is a way better experience.
To end the post in bad-luck style: after that we went back to Tbilisi train station and learned that the trains to Batumi were booked for the rest of the week. So where did that leave us? Did we flee off to Armenia? Back to Kutaisi to take the first flight back home? Go to the Kazbegi mountains? Stay tuned!
Have you been to Georgia? Or do you have any questions if you’re thinking about going?
Whenever I mention I’m from the Netherlands people always assume I’m from Amsterdam. Sadly I’m not, but from what I hear from my friends it’s like living in any big city: rent is way too high, smashed avocado sandwiches too expensive and public transport is shit.
But those big city flaws don’t stop me from visiting often, and as I wandered around the city one a sunny afternoon last week I realised I do have some Amsterdam rituals I keep coming back to.
Get My Culture On
During my teens, Amsterdam was where I went throw away my hard-earned money on shopping sprees, and when I got a bit older my go-to place for concerts – but then I’d only see what was between the train station and the venue. It wasn’t until later I learned to appreciate its many museums and historical activities, so now I try to cross off one museum per visit. From a quick exhibition at FOAM to a Friday Late at the van Gogh and checking out a new kid on the block, the city’s cultural hubs will never let you down.
Eat All The Fried Goods
When I’m at my parents I usually go for Bosnian dishes and Dutch cheese, so for me Amsterdam is where I can indulge in Dutch deep fried food. My favourites are fries at Manneke Pis, cheese croquettes at EYE and the delicious goodness that are bitterballen. If you see bitterballen in the menu, do yourself a favor and order a portion, they’re breadcrumb-covered little pieces of heaven.
Go All Touristy
While I have a a bit of love/hate relationship with tourist traps, I don’t turn my back on them all! I still haven’t seen everything so I always make cross something off my Amsterdam list whenever I go. Whether that’s going for pancakes at that place that’s all over IG, spotting the bench from the Fault in our Stars or facing my fears at the A’dam Lookout swing.
Do you have rituals for the places you visit often?
It’s easy to forget Austria is home to some of the most beautiful castles and palaces the world has to offer. In Innsbruck I thought it would be all about the views, food and hiking. But it turns out the city contains not only a palace at its centre, but also a hidden gem nestled on its outskirts.
Ambras Castle was built all the way back in the 1560s by Archduke Ferdinand II on the base of an even older castle dating back to the 10th century. Ferdinand built this castle for his wife and they both resided here for over 30 years, so probably one of those ‘here’s a present for myself disgused as one for you’ arrangements. I love how minimalist and modest it looks
From the outside it’s not too much in your face like the nearby Neuschwanstein Castle there’s no fancy gardens like Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna. That is until you get to go inside and explore the over-the-top interiors of Spanish Hall and the collections of weapons, books, works of art the pair collected from their travels.
The guy who scanned our tickets reminded us we had an hour left before they’d close and I was very confident that would be more than enough. That was before I learned you’d spend half of your visit to take in the Spanish Hall where some amazing balls and banquets were all the rage. It walls are plastered with 27 portraits of Tirolean rulers…imagine being the 28th most important ruler? I feel for them!
What I often miss in castles is the armouries, you often see one of two here and there, but Ambras has three full chambers of armour including tournament armour, ceremony armour and the suit their very own Ser Gregor ‘The Mountain’ Clegane wore. You’ll have to use your imagination as taking photos weren’t allowed or I was too excited taking it all in.
The lovely landscaped gardens and park of the complex are the perfect spot to spend an additional hour and maybe have a little picnic or nap on the grass – if the weather allows it of course.
Once in a while when I’m stuck for inspiration I end up on one of those blogs that dispense blog topics you should write about. So I pick a few that seem interesting, write out a breakdown and then realise I’m too straight to the point and can’t even reach 200 words! I don’t want my golden answers to go to waste so here is a good old listicle…
How to Fit Everything in a Carry On – Roll your clothes, get packing cubes and if it doesn’t close a bit of violence may be called for.
What’s In Your Camera Bag – Camera bag? You mean my tote bag where let my camera and extra lens swing around? And extra battery if I’m feeling daring?
The Ultimate Paris Packing List – You mean the extra two t-shirts I packed during my 36 hours trip back in April? I’m the last person you should take fashion advice from, but I can tell you that whatever top you pack make sure it has stripes.
10 Tips on How to Save For Travel – Why 10 when you only need one: over the years I’ve tracked my average daily holiday spend so I just multiply that amount by my vacation days and divide by 12, this way I know how much I need to set aside every payday. I always calculate a bit extra, but in case I need a bigger budget for a more expensive destination I would look at cutting expenses like skipping on eating out, lunch take-away and going for drinks.
How to Plan a Trip with a Big Group – Ignore the emoji-filled Whatsapp groupchat until someone with actual planning skills steps up and volunteers.
Best Photo Spots in London – London is photogenic, so literally anywhere as long as you don’t stand in the middle of the road and in the way of people trying to pass by.
How to Book the Cheapest Flights – I don’t want to be that person that advises you to book a 6 AM flight from a regional airport 3 hours from your home just to save £30.
What posts do you have that you can’t seem to finish?
Sure I do the occasional complaining about everything from the dull weather, to the weird separate hot & cold taps and the painful costs of public transport. But there are tons of things I do love about this country. Kicking off with …
August Bank Holiday
Most countries’ public holidays are all bunched up in the first half year and for someone who doesn’t have a summer holiday anymore it’s very exciting to have a surprise three-day weekend in the last week of August. It’s like finding money that was already yours in a jacket you haven’t worn for a while. And it doesn’t even matter that it’s likely to be miserable and rainy.
Free Entry To Museums
Free entry to most museums is really one of the best things about the UK. Especially with all the budget cuts and prices going up every year, getting cultured and learning new things will still cost you absolutely nothing. So I’m going to enjoy those until someone realises they can cash out.
People Saying Sorry, Even When It’s Not Their Fault
If someone bumps into you, they’ll apologise without even thinking about it. Sure, half of the time it comes out as a bark and the other half as a snark, but getting that five letter word out really matters. The day that British people stop apologising, it would be the end of civilisation as we know it!
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